Ladakh | Destination Ladakh | Leh - Ladakh | Ladakh Jeep Safari



Ladakh – Last outpost of Tibetan civilization

Ladakh, the highest and the most extensive Himalayan region sandwiched between two vast mountain systems, the Himalayas to the south, the Karakoram to the north and beyond Karakoram lies another mountain Range, Kun - Lun. With its borders with Tibet, Chinese Sinkiang and Baltistan, Its location has earned Ladakh the nickname “Central Asian Diamond,” which brought the various realms of Asia together through certain important trade routes connecting lands lying on all its four sides. Ladakh served as a transit area, a region of interaction for people from neighboring regions.

The 98000 Square kilometers of area comprising 60 % of the state of J&K, in which the human habitation covers an altitude range of over 2000 mts, is spread all over a unique landscape on the Earth. Ladakh is divided into different interesting valleys; Zanskar to the south, Suru valley in the south West, Nubra Valley to the northeast, Markha Valley in the center and Rupshu to southeast. The major rivers of the region are Zanskar, Suru, Indus, Markha, and Shayok. Most of these trails for trekking and other travels always have a river, as a companion so during the travels in Ladakh, it is also interesting to connect our journeys with these rivers, along which flourished some of the great civilizations of the World.

These Valleys offers an amazing variety of ingredients for the travellers in terms of the ancient culture endowing it with the mystery as the result of centuries of isolation, its lunar landscape with beautiful monasteries constructed at the highest and isolated points on the rocky mountains and strikingly beautiful brackish lakes such as Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Tso Kar.

The multi racial society is the result of intermingling of various ethnic groups such as Dards, Tibetans and possibly other races too. As one of the tributaries of The Famous Silk Route, many caravans composed of the various ethnic groups of the South and central Asia passed through Ladakh and considering the slow pace of the travel and other delays caused by closing of passes in the winter have resulted in many of them staying on, and others leaving half – Ladakhi children behind them.

Important Town

Leh

Leh the capital of Ladakh which by virtue of being situated at 3,500 Mts. above sea level, becomes one of the highest valleys in the World. The three-letter word “ Leh” which appears prominently in all maps of the area means “oasis”. The crest of the Great Himalayan Range to the South and South West of Ladakh prevents the monsoon from entering it and leaves the Valley Absolutely arid. The snowline is higher here then most of the comparable places and the greater portion of the land remain uncultivated. But in spite of the dryness, the land being stony, some cultivation of wheat and barley is done. Tamarisks, Poplars, elaeagnus and Junipers are grown here. The main street of Leh is the new Bazar, which was laid out by captain Trench in 1897. Shops on both sides of the street sell the general merchandise which one finds in any bazaar in India. Leh town, an oasis in the cold desert extending over hundreds of kilometers, is a strange mixture of old and new structures and clusters of Chhortens (Stupa’s), Massive Mane Wheels (Buddhist prayer wheels) in the middle of the path. Its most impressive sight is a massive stone castle rising almost vertically into the air. This was the seat of the rulers of Ladakh. Towards the end of the bazaar, there are pavement vegetable sellers, the carrots; Jumbo sized cabbages, turnips, radishes and cauliflowers. The tomatoes too are usually large. In olden days, this was a very popular bazaar where people used to buy and sell their wares. And also a place where many races met. Tibetans came from Lahsa, after a three-month journey. People from Peshawar, Baltistan and Kashgar also visit Leh quite frequently during the Silk Route days. Polo, the popular game was regularly played in the bazaar every afternoon. It was a practice, which continued till as late as the 1950’s, when all the shops closed every afternoon to enable people to participate in the polo match. Still at certain occasions including the Ladakh festival in September, the polo match is played here in a traditional style.

Interesting places to Visit

Important Monasteries around Leh

HEMIS GOMPA

Hemis, the biggest monastery in Ladakh was founded in 16th century by Senge Namgyal popularly known as the lion king. He entrusted the monastery to his Prime Minister Tatsang Repa, who played a significant role during his reign. The monastery has three floors with terraces, which cover the whole building. The above offer an excellent view over the Indus and the northern chains. The most interesting of all the chambers, The Tsokhang, has the large statue of the Shakyamuni Buddha in the centre of the room the statue of Tara (popularly known as Dolma in Tibetan) with chhortens (stupas) plated with precious metals in the Kashmiri style. There are also other statues of Bodhisattva’s and one of the Padmasambhava, the most flamboyant personality in Tibetan Buddhism and other deities such as Kali, Senge Namgyal (the founder). Several ancient Thangkhas complete the ensemble. Another chamber, the Du-khang or assembly hall, where the ceremonies are held and also contain the throne of the chief lama. Some ritual objects are only displayed on certain dates, such as a thangka, embroidered with pearls and represent Padmasambhava, which is only shown every eleven years. At the rear of the courtyard, a passage leads to the “ an ancient temple – the lhakhang Nyingpa, which has several paintings which could be contemporaneous with its foundation. These paintings represent the great Tibetan Yogi and Poet Millarepa, Tara, Shambunath, often linked with Tatsang Repa. A certain number of old works of art have been preserved in the small temples giving onto the balconies. Then comes the Zakhang (g Zab – khang) or “Hall of Beauty”. It is here, in this place that some fine Kashmiri bronzes have been preserved. Several manifestations of the Buddha’s are represented under the form of Vairocana (teachings) and Amohgasiddhi (gesture of absence of fear). Some of these statues are of a purely medieval style. Weapons are displayed on one of the three pillars of the reception hall. A door in the rear, next to the throne, gives access to the rest of the apartments of the Chief Lama. In the room, the Zong – nag or “treasure in the shadow “ are kept the works of the value deposited for security reasons by monasteries dependent of Hemis. This is not public and they open it only when a new guard takes charge of the treasure. In the last temple, the Tsom (Tshoms) or Gallery, are kept the monasteries rare books.

Thikse Monastery

Nineteen Kilometers East of Leh to the right bank of Indus, lies the Thikse Monastery is Beautifully situated in totally arid landscape with the Phyang village lying below surrounded with snowy landscape. The monastery was built during the reign of Tashi Namgyal. Around 70 monks reside in the monastery . The whole monastery is divided into three main temples. The monastery has various statues of Bodhisattva’s including Avalokiteshvara and other prominent deity, Vajradhara also the great Indian Master AtisaThe statue of the founder , Tashi Namgyal is also present . There is also a chapel with the remains of the Founder. The walls of the Monastery are decorated with the paintings of various Buddhist deities and episodes related with them and Buddha. Several fresco’s representing the Lama’s of Kagyu pa Sec, dedicated to tantrik themes are present in the Monastery. One of the Chamber (Gong Khang) houses several terrible divinities, with stuffed animals and a small but unique collection of arms. With wall paintings of great historic founders of different sects, Millarepa , Tilopa , Marpa and Naropa. During the annual festival in Feb 25 people unfurl a gigantic thangka. Monastery. Their foundation was due to one of Tsongkhapa prophecies: “ on the right bank of River Si-ta, my teachings will flourish” .One of his disciples’ nephew founded the Monastery in the middle of the 15th Century. The huge pile of the Monastery dominates the fields and the houses of the Village. The entire East-facing slope is covered with buildings. Generally speaking, the interest lies in the majesty of the architectural merits rather then in the temples, their paintings and the sculptures. Thikse is one of the largest and the most impressive monastery in Central Ladakh. Around 80 monks of the Gelugpa persuasion stay here and there are also some nuns. As we enter the Monastery, to the right, there is a two story temple dedicated to His Holiness the Dalai Lama with a huge image of Matriya and the murals behind the image represent scenes of Matriya’s life and pillars, doors and windows of the chamber are very well decorated by the local artists. The Du – Khang Chamber at the other end of the courtyard contains old paintings and images of wrathful deities such as Yab – yum and book racks with various volumes of scriptures. A small chapel behind the main attar, houses images of Shakyamuni, four armed Avalokiteshvara and Tsongkhapa. There are remains of the mural showing grotesque animal figures. The Go-khang Chamber is dark and gloomy as always and the women can only enter when the faces of the deities are veiled. The roof terrace offers a stunning view of upriver to Stakna and down to Shey, across to Chushat and Matho.

Shey Monastery

Shey (Shell) in the olden times also remained one of the capitals of the Eastern Kingdom of Ladakh. On the main road up the Indus, about fourteen kilometers from Leh, was the ancient Capital of Ladakh. The fortress, which tops the promontory, seems to have been the oldest established building. There is an ancient engraved rock at the foot of the hill, on which the monastery has been erected. Tradition has it that Shey was the capital of the pre – Tibetan kings of upper Ladakh, supposedly the descendants of Kesar. The remains, which are fairly extensive, have been reduced by weather and time to bare walls. Many of then are pierced with loopholes. There is also a later palace, similar in outline to the one at Leh but smaller, of whose construction here seems to be no record. The importance which was attached to Shey – the heart of Ladakh’s heartland – is assisted by the enormous Chhortens (Stupa’s) about the Village, particularly around the Shey Palace, and on the barren plain to the north of the road. Incorporated in the palace is a temple with a huge copper. Shey’s other main site is smaller two storied temple with Shakyamuni statue, lies near an isolated road leading to Tikse. A smaller Temple founded by Queen Kalsang, a Balti Princess, who had married Senge Namgyal is devoted to Amitayu, the walls are covered with representation of one thousand Buddha’s against a background of fine wood sculpture. The paintings in the palace represent the sixteen arhats, Buddha’s original disciples, Padmasambhava, Atisa and Tson –ka-pa.

NUBRA VALLEY JEEP SAFARI – THE SILK ROUT CONNECTION

This journey takes one over one of the highest motor able roads across Khardung La (5,600 mts) into spectacular deep, sheer sided valleys, massive glaciers and high mountains such as Saser Kangri (7670 Mts). Nubra Valley, which means garden or green valley, is formed by the confluence of Shayok River and Nubra River itself. Origin of the longest headwater of Shayok River, the Chip – Chap stream is Karakoram Pass and the Nubra River originates from Siachin Glacier. Drained by the waters of Shayok and Nubra the area has the richest soil in Ladakh. The valley has wide diversity of fruits like apple and apricot, vegetable and grains. The valley has several large and beautiful villages such as Deskit, Hundar, Tirit, Sumur and Panamik. The village of Panamik is also famous for hot springs known for curing diseases. These villages have five big monasteries and ten small ones, out of which 500 years old Deskit Monastery is the oldest monastery, Smur Gompa is 250 years old and next is monastery of Samasthangling. The valley is also famous for double humped Bactarian Camels. Though now very few in numbers, they remind one of the Silk Route days as their performance on the mountain trails except on glaciers was magnificent. It carried loads as heavy as 300 kg on the mountain trails of Kun – Lun and the Karakoram. Every year around 10,000 horses are said to have passed through Nubra over Karakoram Pass and Kun- Lun into Kashgar and Yarkand. Nubra remained one of the busiest places during the Silk Route days.

A JOURNEY INTO CHANGTHANG AND ITS BEAUTIFUL LAKES

The massiveness of the mountain ranges shrinks towards the South – East Ladakh. This process eventually results in the formation of high altitude plains and valleys divided by ridges. The whole region is known as Chang-Thang, which literally means Northern plains. This area is actually the continuation of Northern plateau land Chang – Thang of Tibet. Absence of the consistent slope prevents water from draining away. Rather the undulating land forms itself into huge basins, into which streams from melted snow flows in, and finding no outlet settle into great brackish lakes. The biggest of these is Pang – gong Tso (130 Kms. Long and 7 Kms. wide at it’s widest with the Tibetan border running along its Eastern end, only a quarter of the Lake lies in India). drive over Chang La (5,320 Mts.) to Pangong Tso (4,550 Mts.).